As she gears up for her new showcase ‘Tazhib,’ at Lakmē Fashion Week, she states, “The collection is an ode to 25 years of what we have done at Payal Singhal, drawing from the brand’s most iconic silhouettes, styles, and colour stories to weave them into the new collection with a refreshed, modern twist.”

Well-known for creating clothing for stylish, well-travelled women who don’t mind pushing the boundaries of fashion, this contemporary tinge to Mughal-inspired festive wear, banks on the tastefully done nostalgia element, to tickle the fancy of those seduced by storytelling. Keep reading to know more about Payal Singhal’s experience working on the collection.

ELLE: Give us a peek into the name and the inspiration of your collection.

Payal Singhal: ‘Tazhib’ means ‘the art of gilding’ in Arabic. The collection embodies a luxurious aesthetic, with silhouettes crafted from tissue, organza, velvet, and Chanderis. These fabrics are adorned with intricate, old-world embroidery techniques such as mukaish, gota, Lucknowi, and zari. However, each piece is imbued with a unique Payal Singhal twist, blending traditional craftsmanship with a modern flair. True to its name, ‘Tazhib’ features golden accents and a radiant sheen in its embellishments, evoking the rich, gilded traditions of the Mughal era.

ELLE: What are the silhouettes, colour palettes and embellishments utilised?

Payal Singhal: The collection’s colour palette is carefully curated, ranging from striking black-and-white contrasts to vibrant bursts of colour. However, the most evocative hue is the sepia-toned patina that infuses the entire collection with a nostalgic charm reminiscent of Mughal-era splendour. This soft, muted colour story serves as a nod to the past while balancing the collection’s forward-thinking silhouettes. The collection is embellished with gold and silver zardosi pitta work, mukaish work and chikankari accents and our signature tassels in zari and thread with gold beads.

ELLE: In what ways does this collection signify a departure and evolution from your previous ones?

Payal Singhal: The collection isn’t really a departure from our brand ethos but it is an ode to 25 years of what we have done at Payal Singhal drawing from the brand’s most iconic silhouettes, styles, and colour stories to weave them into the new collection with a refreshed, modern twist. In this festive line, one can expect to see the return of some of our signature creations, including deconstructed anarkalis, backless cholis and kalidar shararas, all of which are reimagined with time-honoured Mughal design elements.

ELLE: If pieces from your new collection were to be styled in an iconic Bollywood movie, which one would it be and why?

Payal Singhal: It would be perfect for a modern-day Mughal-e-Azam because the clothes are a contemporary take on Mughal-inspired costumes.

ELLE: Name a yesteryear Hollywood muse who would do justice to this collection.

Payal Singhal: Since it’s a predominantly Indian collection, I would say maybe Sophia Loren. She would’ve carried some of the looks with great elegance in her times.